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Bruce Peninsula - Trail Review

Updated: 4 days ago




July 2024 hike from Tobermory to Barrow's Bay (south of Lion's Head)

101km - Four Days (2 full and 2 half days)


Overall Thoughts:


  • The trail does not have a lot of elevation changes, is rugged in spots and has limited access to water in a few areas.

  • Absolutely stunning views almost the entire hike, worth every step. Arguably the most beautiful section of the Bruce Trail.


Itinerary:


  • Day 1 (Tobermory to High Dump):

    • 9 hours (moving time)  - 31km

    • I got off to a late start and did not hit the trail in Tobermory until 12:30pm, putting me in High Dump quite late at 10:30pm.

      • Dunks Bay Road (water access) - 3.5km

      • Little Cove (water access) - 6.5km - Busy beach, road accessible.

      • Series of overhangs - 10.5km - Great lookout spot with a view of Snaked Beach.

      • Snaked Beach (water access) - 14km - This rock beach has a great overhang which offered some shade as I filtered water and ate lunch.

      • The Overhang - 18km - Popular area to visit, not far from the Grotto. However, not nearly as beautiful as the earlier series of lookouts north of Snaked Beach.

      • Boulder Beach (water access)- 18.75 - Popular place to visit, not far from the Grotto.

      • Grotto/Indian Cove (water access) - 19.25km - Crazy busy, even in the early evening when I arrived here (see pic in gallery).

      • Stormhaven - Back Country Sites (water access) - 22km - Short walk down the beach to Cave Point, well worth the extra mileage. I have been there several times, so I did not visit on this trip.

      • Halfway Dump (water access) - 24.5km - Main parking lot less than 2km from this location. Many day visitors.

      • High Dump Backcountry campsites (water access) - 31km - I arrived after dark, but sites were easy to find and water easily accessible for food prep and swimming/bathing.

    •  Day 1 lessons learned:

      • Too much mileage, should have stayed at Stormhaven.

      • I needed to fill water at Little Cove, as I ran out before I got to Snaked Beach.


  • Day 2 (High Dump to Reed’s Dump)

    • 11.50 hours (moving time) - 43.5km

    • I had an early start to the day getting on the trail at 7:00am and arriving at the Reed's Dump campsite at 8:30pm.

      • Lindsay Road 40 - 12km - No water access (just swampy water). Mostly double track all the way from High Dump, moved fast through this stretch. 

      • Lindsay 40 - 4km - Gravel road, another fast stretch.

        • 2.5km past the end of this road where I picked up the trail again is Mountain Trout Campground. I moved so quickly this day I was here before lunch, so decided to continue to the next campsite at Reed's Dump.

      • Dyers Bay (water access) - 21.5km - First access point for clean water. I walked down the road to the town dock, filtered water, had a swim and a meal.

      • Glacier pothole - 24.5km - Cool geological site to check out, only meters off the trail.

      • Devil’s Monument - 26km - A very popular day trip spot and another very cool stop right on the trail, with a bench for lunch.

      • Note: There are a few spots to access water between Dyer's Bay and Reed's Dump, I just don't recall where I stopped. Possibly near Cape Chin Side Trail?

      • Reed’s Dump Campsite (water access) - 43km - Great spot to camp. Good access to water and a great place to bath/swim.

    • Day 2 lessons learned:

      • Distance: Too much mileage, should have stayed at Mountain Trout Campground, even if it was a short day. I thought Reed's Dump was closer than it was.

      • Water: I needed to carry 3L of water to get to Dyer's Beach from High Dump; I only had 2L of carrying capacity.


  • Day 3 (Reed’s Dump to McKay’s Harbour)

    • 5.25 hours (moving time) - 17.50km

    • I was moving super slow this day, my feet were a mess after 74kms in two days.  The town of Lion's Head was beautiful as were the views on the trail. I arrived at the the McKay's Harbour campsite mid-afternoon.

      • 40 Hills Road/Isthmus Road- 5.0km - Lots of lookouts, along cliffs edge before getting to the roadway.

      • Isthmus Road - 3.5km (water access) - Lots of spots to pop down to water while walking on this road.

      • Lion’s Head Town Dock (water access) - 9.5km.

      • Lion’s head Town - 2km walk through town. Busy will day trippers all the way up the trail to the Lion's Head lookout.

      • Giant’s Cauldron - 14.0km - Another cool geological site to check out, only meters off the trail.  

      • Lion’s Head Pothole - 14.5km - Yet another cool geological site to check out, only meters off the trail.  

      • Lion’s head Lookout - 15.5km - The look out just before the iconic Lion's Head lookout is almost as cool and not nearly as busy. Also, just past the Lion's Head lookout where most day trippers turn back there is a hole in the rock with a view down to a small island; beautiful (see pic in gallery).

      • McKay’s Harbour Campsite - 17.5km - The campsite is okay, lots of slugs though, they seemed to like my tent. The site is just about the only sandy beach in the Bruce Peninsula, but its scattered with rocks, is super shallow and silty. So not great of bathing/swimming nor filtering water.

    • Day 3 lessons learned:

      • Great day, I got to my campsite mid-afternoon, took care of my feet and went to bed early.


  • Day 4 (McKay’s Harbour to Barrow’s Bay)

    • 3 hours (moving time) - 10.0km

    • Very short day, I had a 10:00am pick up time and after some proper foot care the night before, I was feeling great!

    • McKague Rd - 7km - Amazing views a top of cliffs under the early morning sun in the Lion's Head Provincial Nature Reserve.

    • Barrow's Bay Park Lot - 3km - Quick walk on the roadway. No water access until you reach North or West Shore roads, near the end of this trip.


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